Rock of Ages

Beneath the towering Cathedral of Notre Dame, is a city in ruins.  The ruins, that is, of the old settlement of Lutetia.

A tour of the Crypt Archeologique, brought us through the streets of this ancient city. Here you can see the old Rue Notre Dame under the current street.

Along with a great view of the shops and houses that  lined this street, one can also find artifacts from the ancient Romans.

Love Lock Bridge

Paris is the city of bridges.  Linking left and right sides of the Seine and the Iles of Notre Dame and Ile St. Louis, there seem to be bridges at every turn.

On one of these bridges we left our love note in Paris.  We bought a lock, wrote our names (and on the back the names of the girls), attached the lock to the "Love Lock" bridge and threw the key into the Seine as a sign of our undying love for each other. (I know you are either saying 'ah-h-h' or 'yuck')

By Any Other Name

We learned today that all parks have Wi-Fi.  However, en francais our guide pronounced this as "Wee-Fee". We had no idea about what the purpose of this innovation, until we read the sign.

Left Bank

If you are ever in Paris consider taking the free walking tours offered by Discover Walks. 

These tours are conducted by people who live in Paris. Their wage is derived from whatever your tip.  We learned more about Paris today, than any other excursion we have taken. 

We took the Latin Quarter tour. With Ile de Notre Dame as the neutral center, the left bank of the Seine is also known as the student’s quarter. The right bank has the distinction of being the area for glamour and aristocracy. These two sides are often in opposition.

In days gone by all education was in Latin. Hence the area on the left bank, where the places of higher education are located came to be known as the Latin Quarter.

As the original city of Paris, also known as Lutetia, grew beyond the Ile Notre Dame, the many narrow ancient streets of the Latin Quarter came into being. Sorbourne University is located at the heart of this quarter.  

Famous residents of this area include Cyrano de Bergerac, Dr. Guillotine (guess what he invented), and Rene Descartes.  

Night in Paris

We also took an evening bus tour of Paris. Billed as a tour of Parisian lights, the late sunset left much to be desired. We were able to watch the sun set, but it was never quite dark enough to admire the lights of the City. 

Predicament

As we get along in this huge City, we are constantly in awe/fear of the drivers and the ways they manoeuvre through traffic.  However, perhaps it is their ability to park (and to get out of tight spaces) that we should admire.

Not Just Me

Evidence for those who do not believe – here is Cassie taking a photo of her food.  Clearly I am not the only one who does this. 

On the Seine

This evening we dined on the Seine.  The food was amazing and the scenery spectacular. 

What a way to spend an evening!

Soup Anyone?

One cannot come to France and not have French Onion soup – c’est magnifique!

Early Cathedral

This morning Peter and I took a train to the lovely little town of Chartres.  

The Our Lady of Chartres Cathedral began as a Church in the 4^th  century. Over the years it has burned three times, only to be rebuilt on the same place. Built over the site of the first church the Cathedral was rebuilt between 1190 and 1220. A fire in 1836 destroyed the original roof, but the stone work remained unscathed.

We began our tour in the crypt of the church, taking in the original size and structure of the building and the chapels therein.

The Gothic exterior and stained glass windows are treasures to behold. The glass used to create the stained glass windows are original from the 12^th century structure and were created out of glass coloured through a technique that has since been lost. While there would usually be a Mass at 11:00 ad as it was that would not experience Mass here, we were privilege to listen to the organ which was ‘heavenly’.

Chez Clement

On the Champs Elysee, in the shadows cast by the sun setting beyond the Arc de Triomphe, Peter and I dined at Chez Clement. This upscale restaurant was decorated with old spoons, forks and copper pots.

After dinner we took in a show, while the girls went shopping.

Opulence

The key word for the day is opulence.  Today we visited the Palace of Versailles. Built in  and altered by its various inhabitants, the Palace was once home to some 10,000 people in the King’s Court.

Today it stands as a monument to times gone by.

Displays of the palace in times gone by include the great hall of Mirrors and the Queen’s Bedroom.

Did you notice the queen's tree of wigs?

Mixed among the historical pieces are modern art installations including these shoes created from pots and lids. 

An Impressionist Date

Originally a train station that was destined for destruction, the Musee D’Orsay is now home to the works of many great French artists. 

Having spent a full day walking around Paris, we thought we might take in some of the great impressionist pieces at the museum. A sign outside the building says that no one would be admitted after 5 p.m. and that the museum would close at 6:00 p.m.  At 5:05 we walked in and approached the ticket counter. After the couple ahead of us finished paying for their admission, the gentleman at the counter waived us on. We thought we were too late for admission – instead, he let us in -  at no charge, explaining that after all we had less than an hour remaining.

Our first stop was for directions to the Renoir exhibit.  However, we were quickly side-tracked by the marvellous works of Vincent Van Gogh.  In an exhibition area with fellow post-impressionists, Gauguin and Sisley, Van Gogh’s Starry Night and the Bedroom at Arles with their sweeping brush stokes, turned mere paint into strong emotion.

Three floors higher we found the Impressionist Gallery featuring the work of Claude Monet, Edouarde Manet, Degas, and Pierre August Renoir.  These are three works by Monet.

Although the announcements indicated that the museum was closing at 5:30, we were allowed to remain in the gallery until almost 6:00 p.m.  The final 10 minutes of viewing we were privileged to be alone in the room with Renoir’s Dancing at the Moulin de la Galette, one of his most famous paintings. The skilled use of small brush strokes as they created an interplay of light and shadow, left no doubt why Renoir is a master.

An Arc to Remember

The Arc de Triomphe was constructed between 1806 and 1836 to commemorate Napoleon’s triumph at the Battle of Austerlitz in 1805. Since that time it has become a memorial for all those who had fallen in battle.  At the center of the Arc is the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, noted by an eternal flame.

Le Champs-Elysees

When a Royal gardener planted trees in 1667, little did he know that he was creating one of the world most famous streets.  When fountains, lights and cafes were added in the mid-19^th century, the Champs-Elysee became the center of social life in Paris.  

Ready for the Tour

Each July, the final leg of the Tour de France makes its way around the Champs Elysee. It was a thrill for this Tour fan to see the stands being erected in preparation for the race’s conclusion July 22.  Although the Tour does not start until this Saturday (June 30), with two days in Belgium, it is clear that the excitement is already beginning to build. 

Artist Day

“All great artists started with paintings of fruit. I started with a painting of bottles: 

no wonder I am not an artist”  (Elizabeth)

Today was an ‘artist’s day’.  We began at the Louvre. 

Built as a fortress in the 1100’s by King Phillipe-Auguste, it later became a castle, until Napoleon turned it into a museum in 1793.

 Our early start today brought us to the museum as it opened and we made our way immediately to visit the Mona Lisa (or Joconde as she is known here).  To our surprise this relatively small painting is hung behind glass, with two barriers between it and the crowds. A museum guard pays close attention that no one crosses the barriers. 

Other works by DaVinci, Bottecelli, Raphael and Donatello were less closely guarded.

After enjoying the works of 13 th to 17 th century painters including both French and Italian Renaissance masters, we made our way to the opulent Gallery D’Apollo, where artifacts from 17^th century French aristocrats are on display.

The girls also found the time to take in some of the museum’s collection of ancient Greek and Egyptian artifacts. 

Having enjoyed some great works of art, we then made our way through the streets of Paris for yet more adventure. 

Bikes Rule

While the transportation system in Paris is excellent; on the streets, the bike rules.  There are lanes dedicated to those who use the bicycle as a means of transportation and warnings for pedestrians who wander onto that path. 

Higher and Higher

 Originally we thought we would just enjoy the views, but it did not take long for our fatigue to dissipate and our curiosity won again.   We landed at the site of the Tour Eiffel.  

At 304 meters tall, this magnificent display of art and engineering was tower was opened in 1889.

After almost an hour waiting we boarded the elevator to the first landing. Some 100 meters above the ground, I was content to believe this was as high as one could go.  As it turns out, the tickets we purchased were to bring us to the top of the tower. 

In line, I wondered how this very ‘chicken’ person could possibly go any higher.  However, knowing that Paris and the Eiffel tower were on the “Bucket List’ of a dear friend, I felt I owed it to her to at least take a photo from the highest level.

As we entered the final portion of the que to the upper part of the tower, Elizabeth and I became separated from our group.

We reached them just as the elevator doors closed and Eliz and i were left to mount the remaining part of the tower in the absence of family.

We ‘chickens’ bravely continued. We missed the next elevator, but entered the following one. We gently encouraged each other and refrained from looking outside.  As the elevator slowed to it final destination, a caring passenger said to us, ”Oh, it’s broken.”  While our hearts stopped, we were thankful seconds later when the doors opened and we were reunited with Peter and the rest of the girls.

The views were spectacular.  Although the photos do not do justice to the experience, Yvonne, this one is for you... 

Bridges on the Riviere Seine

An après lunch walk brought us to the banks of the Riviere Seine where were bordered the Batobus.  This river bus takes the tourist to 8 potential destinations along the river.  The many bridges that link various parts of Paris are each unique. Their construction, materials and adornments illustrate various periods in the long history of this city. 

Iles St. Louis

We then turned our attention to the tiny island of Ile St. Louis.  Founded in the 17^th century this little island is filled with shops and restaurants, thought it seems that for many in Paris it is only a thoroughfare connecting both river fronts of Paris.  Lunch at “Sorza” was a delight.  The unique style of knives was only a precursor of the marvelous and innovative food to come.

Let Us Begin at the Beginning

We arrived ‘en retard’, at 1:17 a.m. and by the time we reached our hotel it was well after 3:00 a.m..  For this, I think we are forgiven that we slept in until almost 10 a.m. local time.

But this did not stop us from enjoying a very full day in Paris.  We began our day with a ride on the Metro to Ile de la Cite. The oldest settlement in Paris, literally the birthplace of the city seemed like a suitable beginning.  The Metro brought us just meters from St. Chapelle Church.  owever,  However, the long lineH However, the long lines deterred us from entering. Instead we wondered the streets to Notre Dame Cathedral.  This huge twelfth century church features stone carvings and gargoyles on the exterior.  Again the lines deter us from mounting the stairs into the towers, but memories of Esmeralda and Quasimodo remain. 

On Our Way

At last, the flight is beginning to board.
After a series of delays, the plane was ready by 10:00 a.m., but they 'lost' the crew.
Due to the delays when the crew arrived they had to file new a new flight plan.  We are now arriving at "midnight, thirty"(that was the announcement) at Charles de Gaulle airport (not Orly as originally scheduled). They will supply a taxi into Paris.

As I type, the call for pre-boarding has been made.  Paris here we come!

Waiting

Being prepared we left at 4:45 a.m. for Pearson. At that hour the lines were short and we sailed through customs, leaving plenty of time to enjoy the American Express Lounge.
Large comfortable chairs, free Wi-fi, a warm breakfast and a big screen TV to get caught up on the latest news. What more could we ask for?

Among the delights were poached eggs.  My question today is...how did they get the hens to lay eggs like that?

And some wisdom in case you are travelling.  Lip balm is allowed on planes - just done't ask.  Apparently the word 'balm' can cause concern.

Not Quite There

We begin our journey with a delay.  From an original time of 8:00 p.m Sunday to 8:55 p.m. to 7:00 a.m. Monday and now we anticipate leaving at 1000 a.m.

To our delight, this change in time meant that we could spend a wonderful evening in the company of family.  A chance to check out the garden, excellent food, engaging conversation highlighted the evening, turning our misfortune into  pleasure.