3 Million People

The buildings are now desserted. Grass grows were once, trampled by so many, only mud and rock marked the way. The promise of a new way of life, even a better way of life, are now know to be empty.

A cold wind, grey low ceiling and the occassion sprinkle of rain marked our tour of the dreaded Auschwitz and Birkenau concentration camps.

The famous three words over the entrance "Arbiet Macht Frei" are barely visible through the trees, yet upon entering a certain foreboading hangs in the air.

The site of so many killings, through starvation, disease, torture, experimentation and extermination this now museum brings the visitor gently back to the horrors of that time.

Rooms with show cases filled with confiscated eye glasses, luggage, clothes, shoes, hair brushes and even human hair (used to make cloth and mattresses) bring to life the individuals behind the numbers.

This site of such devastation is a powerful reminder that all life is precious and never again can we allow this type of tyranny to rule.

Shrine of Divine Mercy

In Lagiewniki we were guided to the Shrine of Divine Mercy Shrine.

St. Faustina, a Polish national who died at age 33 prior to the out break of WWII, but had fortold of its devastation for Poland, was both a visionary and a mystic. She had visions of Christ that included the now famous image of "Divine Mercy". This shrine and the convent that she served in are national treasures and the site of many pilgrimages including the children we watched preparing to receive First Communion on this day.

Resting atop a large hill, the Shrine of Divine Mercy is a very modern building with many smaller Chapels the furnishings for which are each donated by various countries. Also on site is a tower that offers the visitor a panoramic view of Cracow. This is a site well worth the visit.

Time to Slow Down

Snails creep onto the sidewalks during the rain. Peter and I were out on a brisk evening walk.

Night was falling and the street lights were turning on beakoning us back to the hotel. In an effort to continue to learn the Polish language I was trying to read the billboards. From beer to candy to computers I felt like I was getting the 'hang of it', when under foot we heard a very loud crunch slurppy sound. In an instant, I knew what I had done. Peter looked behind commenting, "How could you miss it, he was huge?"

Sorry Mr. Snail. Please forgive me!

Enter Here

In life, there are doors that appear to welcome and those that offer forboding of unpleasantries to come.

In Cracow many of the old buildings have very ornate solid wood doors that certainly brought my imagination to life. Who would have lived there? What did they do? Are there relatives of the original owners still living there today? If I knocked would someone answer?

However, it is this door that cast an obvious welcoming spell. No doubt all guests would enjoy and great time.

What to Do?

Suppose it is a dark night in Cracow two hundred years ago. You have been invited to dine with an upper-crust family. By torch light you find your way to the correct home, but what do you do with your torch?

That's easy...many households had a special cement receptical to extinguish the torches of night time visitors.

Though very useful in its time, I suspect that is another product gone the way of the 8-track tape.

History and Personal History

A quick break for lunch (and shopping) was followed by a rain drenched walk down the old streets of Cracow to Wawel Castle, the home of presidents and royalty for over 600 years.

Built on a hill overlook the Vistula River, the Castle attract vistors from all over Europe and beyond. The large rooms that are open to the public, display only a portion of the vast fortune contained in this Castle. From ornate ceiling and walls, to wall sized tapistries and furnishings fit for a King, the castle offers many highlights for those who enter its gates.

St.Stanislaw's Cathedral, built in the 13th century, stands proudly within the walls of the Castle. With architecture and works of art that reflect the various periods through which the Cathedral stood, this national treasure also hosts the relics of two Saints, St. Stanislaw and St. Jadwega.

As I walked the grounds of this historical site, I felt like was walking on the grounds of my own history. My father had apprenticed at Wawel Castle in his youth. It was easy to imagine him at work upholstering the chairs for the royal household or even walking the grounds with me.

A Taste for Salt

The Salt Mines in Wieliczka just outside of Cracow were established in the 13th century, producing table salt until 2007.

The mine is now attracts over 1.2 million visitors each year. So what would bring so many to such an unassuming locale?

For more than 100 years miners have worked beyond their regular hours for no additional pecuniary reward, to produce works of art out of rock salt. From the seven dwarfs to larger than life religious figures miners have created pieces to thrill all tastes.

Also carved into the walls of these mines are various large caverns including a Cathedral, the walls of which are adorned with images from various stories in Jesus' life.

The dedication and devotion of these miners is to be admired. What do you do in your life that compares to their commitment?

Our Lady of Czestochowa

The spiritual heart of Poland lies in the "the Lady of Czestochowa" or the 'Black Madonna'. Arriving in Poland in 1384, its image has been blackend over the years by the candle light or oil lamps that illuminated the sacred space.

This Icon draws thousands of people daily and our visit was no different. Crowds of curious tourists, young children celebrating the Sacrament of Communion for the first time and newly ordained priests celebrating their first Masses filled the grounds of this Monestary.

Long a symbol of defiance against oppressive rule, this icon of the Virgin Mary and her Child, Jesus, draws onlookers attention with her almond shaped eyes that seems to follow all in her presence.
She welcomes the believers and the curious who, drawn for their own reasons, become rapped in her Holy splendor.

A Saint-in-Waiting

On October 19, 1984, while returning home from a prayer service Fr. Jerzy Popieluszko was abducted, tortured and killed by the Secret Service.

His funeral Mass drew tens of thousands who wished to honour the life of this brave priest who spoke openly about the oppression of the communist government of the time.

To those of us in the west, the story is sad, but to the Polish the death of this local hero in an attempt to silence his dissodence lead to further uprising and eventually the liberation of Poland.

Because this priest went to his death in defence of this country and his religion he is to be Beatified, the third of four steps towards canonization (becoming a saint), on June 6, 2010, by Pope Benedict XVI.

An Honour and a Privillege

One of the hosts for this tour is Fr. Jan, pastor of St. Jerome parish in Brampton.
Today is the 38th anniversary of his ordination. It was both an honour and a privilege to tour his home town of Warsaw with him.

A highlight was returning to the Church where he was ordained and later celebrating Mass with him in the Church where he was formed.

Congratulations Fr. Jan, on 38 years of dedicated service. We wish you many more.

Chopin Lives On

On the grounds of the Royal Palace is a park dedicated to native son, Frederic Franciszek Chopin. Complete with a reflecting pool and rose garden waiting for the sun's warmth to coax the blooms, this park plays host to various musicians who play Chopin's works for park visitors each Sunday.

Known as one of the greatest Romantic composers, this musical genius was forced out of Poland following the Russian suppression of the Polish uprising in 1830. Though he lived most of his life in France, our guide was proud to tell us that most of Chopin's work was composed in Poland.

Considered a national treasure Chopin's works are being highlighted this year in concerts by various artists.

History Abounds

Warsaw's roots reach into the 10th century.

Parts of the old city dating in the 13th century are still visible though much of the city has been destroyed by war.

The Market Square was rich with entertainment, crafts, food, beverage and history.

The walls of these rebuilt buildings reflect the same attention to detail as the original old city. Instead of house numbers, domiciles are identified by the relief artwork on each building. Each row house standing three or four stories high maintains its own unique identity. With shops in the lower floors the upper apartments are rented to locals.

The streets are narrow reflecting the cart and horse days of old. There is no room for the modern automoblile in the old city.

The Barbican, a thick brick wall acting to fortify the old city and protect its inhabitants from invasion remains, though today and even in its day, it was not highly effective. We were grateful to be free to explore the rich beauty of the old city.

Our guide brought us to a jewellery shop where we picked up a few pieces. The merchant, impressed with Peter's Polish offered him afutrher discount on our purchases.

Back to Our Roots

A friend on our flight asked if we would do as Pope John Paul II did and kiss the ground when we land.

Arriving in the country that is unfamiliar to us personally, but very familiar in family lore, felt strangely like home. With out hesitiation Peter began to connect with people in Polish. Many here have commented on his command of the language. Members of the tour group have learned to take advantage of his talent.

For me, walking past groups speaking their native tongue is reminiscent of times when, in our family home, my parents' friends would gather and Polish was heard everywhere.

We are strangers in this land, yet in many ways we have returned home.

Our first evening was spent having dinner then taking a brief walking tour with one among us who is familiar with the locale before setting into a very much needed rest.

And no ...we did not kiss the ground when we landed.

A full day enjoying the sights and sounds lays ahead when we rise.

Getting Started

Leaving is always the hardest part. So many little details, last minute crises and loved ones to provide for.

Happily once we left home the journey to Toronto, to Paris and then Warsaw was uneventful.

This journey to Poland, the Czech Republic, Austria and Germany, though with a tour group, is an immensely personal one. Both of our fathers and Peter's mother were from Poland. My mother from Germany.

Won't you consider joining us as we embark on this pilgramage to our roots?